If you’ve spent any time in Denver, Casa Bonita isn’t just a restaurant. Eating there is a rite of passage. Between 1973 and 2022, where else could you watch a cliff diver while gnawing on tacos that tasted like they’ve been in training for a food-eating contest?
At first, I was reluctant to check out Casa Bonita 2.0 until we chatted briefly with a guy in Nederland, Colorado. He implored us to watch a documentary, ¡Casa Bonita Mi Amor!, that screened at the Sundance Film Festival.
The iconic pink cathedral on West Colfax closed during the COVID-19 pandemic. South Park TV show creators, Trey Parker and Matt Stone, announced in August 2021 that they were buying Casa Bonita. We watched the documentary that chronicles the brain damage that Parker and Stone endured as the cost of their project blossomed into a multimillion-dollar money pit, and I made a reservation.
Armed guards monitored a metal detecting machine. After clearing security, Diana and I stepped inside at 11:30 a.m. Upon entering, the familiar air faintly smelled like cumino powder and chlorine. The restroom door was still sticky. There are some things I want to always count on in life. The theme song of the 1963 Elvis Presley movie, Fun in Acapulco, added to the atmosphere.
That was a movie that threw Parker and Stone back to their childhoods and how Casa Bonita had misappropriated Mexican culture.
The layout hadn’t changed a bit. Most of the $30 million was spent updating the structure to code. The improvements were behind the walls. The documentary showed that the electrical system that recirculated lagoon water was changed out so the divers wouldn’t get electrocuted.
The spacious multi-level main dining area was still dark as Black Bart’s Cave. There was a new carpet and paint. At the time I made the reservation, I didn’t realize there were ticket tiers. I apparently reserved a basic table because the two-top was in the Silver Mine, which had no light. Unless you’re lucky enough to sit under a retrofitted kerosene lamp, my old eyes couldn’t read anything.
The host moved us to a better-lit place. I could have reserved a VIP table next to the cliff diver lagoon.
The most significant change was the food. Instead of mystery tacos and burritos sliding out of a cafeteria window, a server now takes orders at the table. The Americanized Mexican food became more authentic. The updated menu selections came courtesy of resident chef Dana Rodriguez, a six-time nominee for the James Beard award. She revamped the menu, bringing her style and experience from her successful Denver restaurants Work & Class and Super Mega Bien.
The server recommended the green chili brisket tacos with cabbage, rice, and beans. At $29.99 for lunch, you get the entrée, a drink, and, of course, the endless sopapillas. Diana tried the taco salad. Dinner? Ten bucks more.
I’ll be honest, I didn’t mind the Casa Bonita 1.0 tacos. I went with the “all you can eat” option, which was more like “all you can choke down.” This time, the green chili brisket tacos were excellent. I don’t know if they’re made in-house, but the soft corn tortillas were hand-pressed. The brisket melted in my mouth.
Before and now, the endless sopapillas with honey were the main culinary attraction. The Casa Bonita 2.0 versions were still sweet and messy. Hoisting the small flag on the table was still the way to hail a server for more sopapillas.
After paying the bill, a walking tour was in order. It had been years since my last visit (my 50th birthday, I think). The cliff diver plunging headfirst into the lagoon was still cool, and Black Bart’s Cave had a few startling moments. The view from behind the waterfall was still unique. I don’t know if I’ll be back. I left with the strange comfort that some things change and some things stubbornly don’t, like sticky bathroom doors and endless sopapillas.
Maybe that’s what makes Casa Bonita so oddly beloved. It’s not about the food, or the wait times, or the cliff divers. It’s about colliding with your own past while holding a plate of green chili brisket in one hand and a honey-soaked sopapilla in the other. Do I want to be young again? Not exactly, but to feel young again for a lunch hour on West Colfax? That was worth pushing open a sticky door one more time and seeing the South Park display with Cartman noshing a burrito.
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🌸 Denver’s legendary Casa Bonita is BACK! 🌮🤿 Brisket tacos, cliff divers, endless sopapillas 🍯—and a gorilla-pig (?) to keep things interesting. Nostalgia never tasted so good. ✨ #CasaBonita #DenverEats #FoodieAdventure #SopapillasForever #OnlyInDenver https://bouldercomedia.com/?p=10095&preview=true
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